Ytterligare en 8000m toppad av svensk!
- Trådstartare Corax
- Start datum
Sträng ringde mig i onsdags. Vi har diskuterat Dhaulagiri och en massa annat. För någon timme sedan fick jag ett mail. Den numera "offentliga" delen av detta mail lyder enligt följande:
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"The definition of a summit is where nothing leads upwards and only downwards. Why then is it so difficult to honor this paradigm among 8000m summit claims? The answer is multifaceted where everything from the field of view is obstructed, misunderstanding or inadequate knowledge of where the true/main summit is located to group pressure and poor weather which makes it difficult to orient oneself in this treacherous terrain in the death zone where the brain simply works on the half-speed at best.
When I was climbing on Broad Peak (8047 m) in Pakistan in the year 2017 without supplemental O2 I joined an enthusiastic team (led by Mingma Gayle Sherpa) to where the consensus at the time was that we had reached the true/main summit. The weather was poor, and visibility was not greater than 10-15 m at times and I had a nagging feeling up there that something was wrong. The terrain did not match the research I had done on Broad Peak’s summit, and it did not take long until the most reputed 8000m historians contacted me, Eberhard Jurgalski at 8000ers.com, and we started investigating where we had been. With meticulous scrutiny and comparison with undisputable reference pictures and film, I realized that I and the rest of the team had been approx. fifteen vertical meters short from the true/main summit on a foresummit and I immediately retrieved my summit claim. I returned the year after and summited Broad Peak (see the attached picture from the true/main summit) during an auspicious weather window (apart from the cold and fierce wind) with my climbing partner David Roeske. If the summit was the goal, then evidently reaching the true/main summit should be paramount.
The recent disputes of Manaslu and Dhaulagiri summit claims have made me curious and concerned, and I have once again dug into my archives to investigate what is what with tremendous help from outstanding documents that Eberhard and his colleagues have put together. The Manaslu document is called: “About-Manaslu-summit-topography” and the Dhaulagiri document is called: DHA1-topography-V1.5-A. It is now clear to me that I did not summit Manaslu’s true/main summit back in autumn 2015 and in fact, none of the around eighty climbers did. We must have been to the foresummit designated as C2 in the Manaslu document. I recommend that you get hold of these documents as they are a true piece of detective work and can help future mountaineers to avoid any controversy where the actual ture/main summit is located.
Secondly, I was climbing on Dhaulagiri in 2003 which was a particularly hair-raising experience with quite a few close calls during an epic downclimb during the formidable night after the summit push. Luckily, there were no fatalities that spring. Just before I and Kami Sherpa were topping out on the west couloir there was a climber who stumbled and fell down the couloir. I do not know how far he would have slid if it were not for Kami and me who stopped him. The wind was outrageous when we arrived at the ridge, and we were fighting to be able to walk. Comparing my material and my accounts from what happened that day (I must admit my mind was blurred due to exposure and climbing without supplemental O2) with Eberhard’s Dhaulagiri document I now have a tough time seeing that we could have been on the true/main summit but instead must have been at one of the foresummits.
In summary, it now stands clear to me that I neither could have been on either Manaslu’s or Dhaulagiri’s true/main summit and therefore I effectively retrieve my summit claim on these two peaks. Right should be right, no question about it. Eberhard and his colleagues have done a phenomenal job to enlighten us about the facts of the summit's whereabouts and their important work should be praised and rewarded. Please support Eberhard the way I have done in the past by paying for his services! Also, Eberhard and his colleagues claim that several of the early pioneers that has claimed to reach the true/main summit of 8000ers in their quest to scale the world's fourteen 8000m peaks has in fact not done so. It is also a commonly known fact that many organizers have guided high-altitude tourists (there is no condescending intention by naming mountaineers as tourists on 8000m and there are in fact many high-altitude tourists. For instance, I regard my climb on Manalsu as tourism as I was using both fixed ropes and O2 in my attempt to ski the mountain) to one of the foresummits on Manaslu for many years and set it into practice.
I also would like to stress out a couple of important things. Firstly, I do not climb solely to reach a summit. It is called climbing not “summing”. The reason I climb lays somewhere between the base and the summit. Secondly, it lays in every mountaineer’s interest to know where the summit is and if one has attained it, why else spend thousands of hours training and spending countless money on giant peaks? Therefore, I am grateful to have received insights about Manaslu and Dhaulagiri and extend my thankfulness to people who devote so much time to investigate the matter. Thirdly, an insight I have learned during my years climbing 8000ers is that the talk has been constructive and without prejudice but there are always people behind a desk who is anonymous and who are intoxicating the discourse and even going as far as sending death threats. I have received several death threats over the years and that is unacceptable. Let us respect manners when we talk to each other. There are too many problems already in the world today. It costs nothing to be kind and constructive. So, with this being said, I have now officially climbed seven of the world's fourteen 8000ers and I hope that people who take their summits seriously will follow suit and investigate with the help of Eberhard and his team about their summit claims.
If you want to learn more about the 8000m summit topic then please visit www.8000ers.com
With kind regards Fredrik Sträng"
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Det ovan finns även att läsa på diverse s.k. social media.
------
"The definition of a summit is where nothing leads upwards and only downwards. Why then is it so difficult to honor this paradigm among 8000m summit claims? The answer is multifaceted where everything from the field of view is obstructed, misunderstanding or inadequate knowledge of where the true/main summit is located to group pressure and poor weather which makes it difficult to orient oneself in this treacherous terrain in the death zone where the brain simply works on the half-speed at best.
When I was climbing on Broad Peak (8047 m) in Pakistan in the year 2017 without supplemental O2 I joined an enthusiastic team (led by Mingma Gayle Sherpa) to where the consensus at the time was that we had reached the true/main summit. The weather was poor, and visibility was not greater than 10-15 m at times and I had a nagging feeling up there that something was wrong. The terrain did not match the research I had done on Broad Peak’s summit, and it did not take long until the most reputed 8000m historians contacted me, Eberhard Jurgalski at 8000ers.com, and we started investigating where we had been. With meticulous scrutiny and comparison with undisputable reference pictures and film, I realized that I and the rest of the team had been approx. fifteen vertical meters short from the true/main summit on a foresummit and I immediately retrieved my summit claim. I returned the year after and summited Broad Peak (see the attached picture from the true/main summit) during an auspicious weather window (apart from the cold and fierce wind) with my climbing partner David Roeske. If the summit was the goal, then evidently reaching the true/main summit should be paramount.
The recent disputes of Manaslu and Dhaulagiri summit claims have made me curious and concerned, and I have once again dug into my archives to investigate what is what with tremendous help from outstanding documents that Eberhard and his colleagues have put together. The Manaslu document is called: “About-Manaslu-summit-topography” and the Dhaulagiri document is called: DHA1-topography-V1.5-A. It is now clear to me that I did not summit Manaslu’s true/main summit back in autumn 2015 and in fact, none of the around eighty climbers did. We must have been to the foresummit designated as C2 in the Manaslu document. I recommend that you get hold of these documents as they are a true piece of detective work and can help future mountaineers to avoid any controversy where the actual ture/main summit is located.
Secondly, I was climbing on Dhaulagiri in 2003 which was a particularly hair-raising experience with quite a few close calls during an epic downclimb during the formidable night after the summit push. Luckily, there were no fatalities that spring. Just before I and Kami Sherpa were topping out on the west couloir there was a climber who stumbled and fell down the couloir. I do not know how far he would have slid if it were not for Kami and me who stopped him. The wind was outrageous when we arrived at the ridge, and we were fighting to be able to walk. Comparing my material and my accounts from what happened that day (I must admit my mind was blurred due to exposure and climbing without supplemental O2) with Eberhard’s Dhaulagiri document I now have a tough time seeing that we could have been on the true/main summit but instead must have been at one of the foresummits.
In summary, it now stands clear to me that I neither could have been on either Manaslu’s or Dhaulagiri’s true/main summit and therefore I effectively retrieve my summit claim on these two peaks. Right should be right, no question about it. Eberhard and his colleagues have done a phenomenal job to enlighten us about the facts of the summit's whereabouts and their important work should be praised and rewarded. Please support Eberhard the way I have done in the past by paying for his services! Also, Eberhard and his colleagues claim that several of the early pioneers that has claimed to reach the true/main summit of 8000ers in their quest to scale the world's fourteen 8000m peaks has in fact not done so. It is also a commonly known fact that many organizers have guided high-altitude tourists (there is no condescending intention by naming mountaineers as tourists on 8000m and there are in fact many high-altitude tourists. For instance, I regard my climb on Manalsu as tourism as I was using both fixed ropes and O2 in my attempt to ski the mountain) to one of the foresummits on Manaslu for many years and set it into practice.
I also would like to stress out a couple of important things. Firstly, I do not climb solely to reach a summit. It is called climbing not “summing”. The reason I climb lays somewhere between the base and the summit. Secondly, it lays in every mountaineer’s interest to know where the summit is and if one has attained it, why else spend thousands of hours training and spending countless money on giant peaks? Therefore, I am grateful to have received insights about Manaslu and Dhaulagiri and extend my thankfulness to people who devote so much time to investigate the matter. Thirdly, an insight I have learned during my years climbing 8000ers is that the talk has been constructive and without prejudice but there are always people behind a desk who is anonymous and who are intoxicating the discourse and even going as far as sending death threats. I have received several death threats over the years and that is unacceptable. Let us respect manners when we talk to each other. There are too many problems already in the world today. It costs nothing to be kind and constructive. So, with this being said, I have now officially climbed seven of the world's fourteen 8000ers and I hope that people who take their summits seriously will follow suit and investigate with the help of Eberhard and his team about their summit claims.
If you want to learn more about the 8000m summit topic then please visit www.8000ers.com
With kind regards Fredrik Sträng"
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Det ovan finns även att läsa på diverse s.k. social media.
Fast det gör det nog om själva målbilden är en toppbestigning.
Att vända 100m under är ju ur den synvinkeln att betrakta som ett misslyckande eller i bästa fall en lärdom inför nästa försök.
Dom som klättrar 8000m toppar gör det förmodligen inte med huvudsyfte naturupplevelse utan snarare utmaning och testa sina gränser skulle jag gissa.
Är det en trevlig upplevelse man vill nå med att bestiga berg skulle jag tänka mig att höjdgränsen går långt under "döds zon nivå" där syrgas är direkt nödvändigt för att klara någon längre vistelse och ständig koll på det optimala vädret för att man ska kunna överleva ett toppförsök.
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