Klätternostalgi: 20 frågor om gamla klätterskor
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EBs
Visst var de väl blå canvas med grå mocka och svarta sulor vita bomullsskoband i orginal men många byte till läderskoband villjag minnas. Det finns mycket på Google om EBs och climbing shoes t ex http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/73859
Det kan ha stått EB på den runda mockaläderbiten men jag minns inte säker. Skorna jag hade sålde jag till en kurskamrat ca 1980.
Resten är lite off topic.
En riktigt cool story från http://www.richardsnotes.org/archives/2004/07/07/a-climbing-story/ som jag inte kan underlåta att citera här nedan.
Thure
"One day I was there with a bunch of folks, talking, climbing, resting. It was a busy day as Columns days went; there were people on many of the climbs, some leading, some top-roping.
An old Datsun pickup drove up and I noticed because it was beat up, rusty, and had the back cut off with a small flatbed on it. A middle-aged guy got out. He was in city clothes and did not look the part of a climber. He reached back in behind the seat and pulled out an ancient looking pair of old, beat-up EBs with duct tape all over them. EBs were early climbing shoes that did not have sticky rubber on them which made climbing with them much harder than current shoes. Even 15 years ago anyone owning, let alone wearing EBs for climbing was from an earlier generation of climbers. I had had a pair of EBs myself as well as the earlier “klettershoes” which were like modern day hiking boots: stiff, non-stick soles not so good for friction although decent for edging and aid. I appreciated what climbing in EBs was like and the situation with this guy and his EBs looked interesting so I continued to watch him. Note that now (1999) shoes are like suction cups compared to EBs.
He sat down on the berm separating the parking area from the climbing area and took off his shoes and put on the EBs. He hardly looked up at the rock or the folks around him.
This was definitely interesting.
There were some very good climbers up on the rock with hardly any room for another rope or for this guy to play around on the bottom of the rock. None of us knew it at the time but some of the climbers up on the rock that day were to go on to become some of the best rock climbers in the world. That day they were agonizing over relatively easy climbing problems.
The guy waited until some folks moved, then quietly, with no eye contact with anyone else, left his shoes on the berm and walked over to one of the harder climbs at The Columns. He stood under it for a second, contemplating or planning or praying. He had no ropes or any equipment except the old shoes on his feet, no gymnastic chalk or harness. Nothing. And, he was in city clothes.
It should be noted that a few of the very best climbers free soloed climbs at The Columns in 1974. This means that they did the climbs without the protection of a rope. At that point no one had ever seen anyone free solo the climb that this guy was under. This added to the intensity of the moment.
This particular climb was a near vertical crack that started out about finger-width and ended up too wide for a fist. Because it was columnar basalt there were no other holds besides the crack. Climbers use a technique on cracks called “jamming” in which they insert fingers or hands and toes or feet (depending on the width of the crack) in the crack and twist the inserted body part so that it will hold body weight until another body part can be jammed in higher. In this way a climber moves up cracks. For the uninitiated it can be an awkward and sometimes painful technique. The closer the crack is to vertical the more weight there is on the inserted body part. The climb this guy was doing was about 40 feet long, very close to dead vertical and it leaned a bit to one side. Even harder.
All of us regulars at The Columns had tried this crack. Few of us had done it at that point although many of us, myself included, would go on to do it eventually. It was what climbers routinely call a “test piece” in that once you did it you were initiated into a more select group of climbers called “hard men” (yes, women were initiated into that group too).
The other significant piece of history about this crack is that many years after this event I tore my left rotator cuff leading it and ended my semi-serious climbing career.
So, the particular crack that this city guy decided to have a go at was significant and by now others had noticed the disaster that was about to happen.
Many of us felt responsible for the place and for the safety of the people who climbed at it and I know a few minds, mine included, were trying to figure out how to stop this guy without causing a fight.
Then without warning he was moving up the crack. I’d never seen anyone climb like him before: smooth, effortless, the best jamming technique I’d ever seen. He moved up the crack as easily as walking on level ground. It was almost like levitation.
My jaw had dropped and I noticed quite a few other open mouths as well.
He never stopped moving. When he got to the top he walked off the side of the cliff and back down to where his shoes were sitting, took off the EBs and put on his shoes and was back in his truck and gone. This entire event took all of 10 minutes from the time he drove up until he was gone.
I turned to my friend Chris and asked if he knew who this guy was? Chris said the guy was Wayne Arrington, a climber who had been a pioneer of Oregon rock climbing over 10 years earlier and had dropped out of sight, helicopter logging in Alaska or something like that.
Arrington was legendary in Eugene climbing circles as one of the few people who was crazy enough to fly a helicopter upside-down in Vietnam. I have no idea if this was true but the thought of it coupled with some of the climbs he had put up was enough to make him a legend.
All I can tell you is that what I witnessed that day was spectacular. Not just the climbing but the way he drove up, was so calm and unconcerned, did the climb easily, and left without a word.
This was the definition of cool."
Visst var de väl blå canvas med grå mocka och svarta sulor vita bomullsskoband i orginal men många byte till läderskoband villjag minnas. Det finns mycket på Google om EBs och climbing shoes t ex http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/73859
Det kan ha stått EB på den runda mockaläderbiten men jag minns inte säker. Skorna jag hade sålde jag till en kurskamrat ca 1980.
Resten är lite off topic.
En riktigt cool story från http://www.richardsnotes.org/archives/2004/07/07/a-climbing-story/ som jag inte kan underlåta att citera här nedan.
Thure
"One day I was there with a bunch of folks, talking, climbing, resting. It was a busy day as Columns days went; there were people on many of the climbs, some leading, some top-roping.
An old Datsun pickup drove up and I noticed because it was beat up, rusty, and had the back cut off with a small flatbed on it. A middle-aged guy got out. He was in city clothes and did not look the part of a climber. He reached back in behind the seat and pulled out an ancient looking pair of old, beat-up EBs with duct tape all over them. EBs were early climbing shoes that did not have sticky rubber on them which made climbing with them much harder than current shoes. Even 15 years ago anyone owning, let alone wearing EBs for climbing was from an earlier generation of climbers. I had had a pair of EBs myself as well as the earlier “klettershoes” which were like modern day hiking boots: stiff, non-stick soles not so good for friction although decent for edging and aid. I appreciated what climbing in EBs was like and the situation with this guy and his EBs looked interesting so I continued to watch him. Note that now (1999) shoes are like suction cups compared to EBs.
He sat down on the berm separating the parking area from the climbing area and took off his shoes and put on the EBs. He hardly looked up at the rock or the folks around him.
This was definitely interesting.
There were some very good climbers up on the rock with hardly any room for another rope or for this guy to play around on the bottom of the rock. None of us knew it at the time but some of the climbers up on the rock that day were to go on to become some of the best rock climbers in the world. That day they were agonizing over relatively easy climbing problems.
The guy waited until some folks moved, then quietly, with no eye contact with anyone else, left his shoes on the berm and walked over to one of the harder climbs at The Columns. He stood under it for a second, contemplating or planning or praying. He had no ropes or any equipment except the old shoes on his feet, no gymnastic chalk or harness. Nothing. And, he was in city clothes.
It should be noted that a few of the very best climbers free soloed climbs at The Columns in 1974. This means that they did the climbs without the protection of a rope. At that point no one had ever seen anyone free solo the climb that this guy was under. This added to the intensity of the moment.
This particular climb was a near vertical crack that started out about finger-width and ended up too wide for a fist. Because it was columnar basalt there were no other holds besides the crack. Climbers use a technique on cracks called “jamming” in which they insert fingers or hands and toes or feet (depending on the width of the crack) in the crack and twist the inserted body part so that it will hold body weight until another body part can be jammed in higher. In this way a climber moves up cracks. For the uninitiated it can be an awkward and sometimes painful technique. The closer the crack is to vertical the more weight there is on the inserted body part. The climb this guy was doing was about 40 feet long, very close to dead vertical and it leaned a bit to one side. Even harder.
All of us regulars at The Columns had tried this crack. Few of us had done it at that point although many of us, myself included, would go on to do it eventually. It was what climbers routinely call a “test piece” in that once you did it you were initiated into a more select group of climbers called “hard men” (yes, women were initiated into that group too).
The other significant piece of history about this crack is that many years after this event I tore my left rotator cuff leading it and ended my semi-serious climbing career.
So, the particular crack that this city guy decided to have a go at was significant and by now others had noticed the disaster that was about to happen.
Many of us felt responsible for the place and for the safety of the people who climbed at it and I know a few minds, mine included, were trying to figure out how to stop this guy without causing a fight.
Then without warning he was moving up the crack. I’d never seen anyone climb like him before: smooth, effortless, the best jamming technique I’d ever seen. He moved up the crack as easily as walking on level ground. It was almost like levitation.
My jaw had dropped and I noticed quite a few other open mouths as well.
He never stopped moving. When he got to the top he walked off the side of the cliff and back down to where his shoes were sitting, took off the EBs and put on his shoes and was back in his truck and gone. This entire event took all of 10 minutes from the time he drove up until he was gone.
I turned to my friend Chris and asked if he knew who this guy was? Chris said the guy was Wayne Arrington, a climber who had been a pioneer of Oregon rock climbing over 10 years earlier and had dropped out of sight, helicopter logging in Alaska or something like that.
Arrington was legendary in Eugene climbing circles as one of the few people who was crazy enough to fly a helicopter upside-down in Vietnam. I have no idea if this was true but the thought of it coupled with some of the climbs he had put up was enough to make him a legend.
All I can tell you is that what I witnessed that day was spectacular. Not just the climbing but the way he drove up, was so calm and unconcerned, did the climb easily, and left without a word.
This was the definition of cool."
Fast det finns utrymme för förvirring.
http://www.merseysidemc.org/history/journal-1999/04-memories.asp har uppgift om gröna skor från Ellis Brigham som kallades EBs.
Thure
pecall; sa:
http://www.merseysidemc.org/history/journal-1999/04-memories.asp har uppgift om gröna skor från Ellis Brigham som kallades EBs.
Thure
Re: Fast det finns utrymme för förvirring.
Kan inte det ha handlat om PA's då? De första PA's:arna (kan man säga så?) tillverkades ju av EB. Fast visst, förvirrande är det. Och det är väl ingen av oss som har järnkoll på alla gamla skomodeller. Speciellt inte de som aldrig sålts i Sverige.
thureb; sa:
Kan inte det ha handlat om PA's då? De första PA's:arna (kan man säga så?) tillverkades ju av EB. Fast visst, förvirrande är det. Och det är väl ingen av oss som har järnkoll på alla gamla skomodeller. Speciellt inte de som aldrig sålts i Sverige.
Re: Re: Fast det finns utrymme för förvirring.
Citerar texten:
"Later we upgraded this form of footwear and adopted either grey suede Austrian Berg klettershue or green suede versions of the same thing made in Manchester by Ellis Brigham, the original EBs. The klettershue were tight fitting and flexible with thin vibram soles and were a great improvement on plimsolls. The "tigers", those who were climbing in Llanberis Pass, were beginning to adopt PAs but we were vociferously traditionalist and decried these as unacceptable climbing aids. I have retreated a long way from this purist position and now put sticky boots on to climb V Diffs and have chalk right up to my elbows."
Vad jag minns är framförallt den omisskännliga doften av använda EBs och hur illa mina breda fötter trivdes i dem.
Tycker inte man skall skriva PA's:arna
Föreslår PAsarna men vad skulle svenska språknämnden säga?
Thure
pecall; sa:
Citerar texten:
"Later we upgraded this form of footwear and adopted either grey suede Austrian Berg klettershue or green suede versions of the same thing made in Manchester by Ellis Brigham, the original EBs. The klettershue were tight fitting and flexible with thin vibram soles and were a great improvement on plimsolls. The "tigers", those who were climbing in Llanberis Pass, were beginning to adopt PAs but we were vociferously traditionalist and decried these as unacceptable climbing aids. I have retreated a long way from this purist position and now put sticky boots on to climb V Diffs and have chalk right up to my elbows."
Vad jag minns är framförallt den omisskännliga doften av använda EBs och hur illa mina breda fötter trivdes i dem.
Tycker inte man skall skriva PA's:arna
Föreslår PAsarna men vad skulle svenska språknämnden säga?
Thure
Yippee!
Jag kan inte just nåt om så här gamla klättergrejor, men kan kasta mig in i diskussionen, och därmed den trevliga tråden, på lingvistiska meriter (måhända tvivelaktiga).
Jag tror på PA:sarna; eller mer svenskt kanske PA:arna.
Jag vill minnas att förkortningar med versaler kan förses med ändelse om man har kolon emellan.
Problemet är förstås här att pluraländelsen -s är engelsk (men ska då inte ha apostrof som ett genitiv-s), och mer korrekt vore alltså PA:arna. Dock kan man konstatera att svenska ord som i singular slutar på a får omljud i samband med pluralform (yxa, yxor). Vi kan ju här inte omljuda A:et eftersom detta är en del av förkortningen.
En möjlig variant vore förstås PA:rna.
Hmm...
achtminus kanske vill vara vänlig och reda ut detta på ett ambitiösare och mer korrekt sätt?
(fast jag lägger en spontan röst på PA:arna)
Jag kan inte just nåt om så här gamla klättergrejor, men kan kasta mig in i diskussionen, och därmed den trevliga tråden, på lingvistiska meriter (måhända tvivelaktiga).
Jag tror på PA:sarna; eller mer svenskt kanske PA:arna.
Jag vill minnas att förkortningar med versaler kan förses med ändelse om man har kolon emellan.
Problemet är förstås här att pluraländelsen -s är engelsk (men ska då inte ha apostrof som ett genitiv-s), och mer korrekt vore alltså PA:arna. Dock kan man konstatera att svenska ord som i singular slutar på a får omljud i samband med pluralform (yxa, yxor). Vi kan ju här inte omljuda A:et eftersom detta är en del av förkortningen.
En möjlig variant vore förstås PA:rna.
Hmm...
achtminus kanske vill vara vänlig och reda ut detta på ett ambitiösare och mer korrekt sätt?
(fast jag lägger en spontan röst på PA:arna)
Har inte heller så gamla grejor, även om mina första klätterskor säkert har antikvärde, men de fick jag ju ärva 
Däremot fick ju språkkonsulten något kul att bita i när det gäller pluralen.
PA är en förkortning. Då ska man böja efter det utskrivna ordet, Pierre Alain. I så fall gäller att egennamn enbart kan böjas i genitiv (ägandeform) och att det därför blir nollplural (jfr Lars Eriksson, Lars Erikssons men inte Lars Erikssonsar liksom Volvo, Volvos men inte Volvosar). Sålunda bör några korrekta fraser vara "Jag har ett par PA-skor", "I dag när jag ska klättra tar jag mina PA" och "Jag är stolt ägare av flera PA".
(Om det inte hade rört sig om en förkortning hade ordet böjts som andra lånord på -a, alltså som inhemska neutrum. Jfr schema, scheman, schemana med PA, PAn PAna, men nu är det ju en förkortning, så detta faller.)
Häpp.
Däremot fick ju språkkonsulten något kul att bita i när det gäller pluralen.
PA är en förkortning. Då ska man böja efter det utskrivna ordet, Pierre Alain. I så fall gäller att egennamn enbart kan böjas i genitiv (ägandeform) och att det därför blir nollplural (jfr Lars Eriksson, Lars Erikssons men inte Lars Erikssonsar liksom Volvo, Volvos men inte Volvosar). Sålunda bör några korrekta fraser vara "Jag har ett par PA-skor", "I dag när jag ska klättra tar jag mina PA" och "Jag är stolt ägare av flera PA".
(Om det inte hade rört sig om en förkortning hade ordet böjts som andra lånord på -a, alltså som inhemska neutrum. Jfr schema, scheman, schemana med PA, PAn PAna, men nu är det ju en förkortning, så detta faller.)
Häpp.
lilla_my; sa:Per, en länk till bilden vore bra...
Naturligtvis. Ibland går det för fort. Eller var det så att det kom "riktigt" jobb och trängde sig på?
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=32584
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