Nyhetsrapporter om alpin klättring

[E9climbing]

Grattis gällande sponsorn! Kommer någon uppdatera bloggen åt er med meddelanden som ni sänder via satellittelefon? Vore otroligt kul att följa detta "live".

Japp vi kommer ha sat tel och skicka sms och korta voice mails. Sa det kommer bli semi live. Du kan aven folja Pivtsov och mig pa Kwangde "live" under januari/feb.

 

[E9climbing]

More from Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Meli and Francesco Cantu

Mera fran denna trio on:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web09f/newswire-italians-khumbu

 

[E9climbing]

More Nepal ACTION

Piolet d'or winners from Japan the Giri-Giri Boys Score FA of Tawoche's North Face

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web09f/newswire-tawoche-north-giri-giri

 

[E9climbing]

Joe Simpson Solos Himalayan New Route

Exposure at its best. Looks like a cool route with significant objective dangers...

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/joe_simpson_solos_himalayan_new_route/

 

[E9climbing]

Kwangde winter Expedition

Vi kommer forsoka posta pa bloggen nedan sa ofta vi kan. Vi gissar pa top forsok fran den 20e och framat.


http://e9climbing.blogspot.com

 

[Adventureblaze]

Håller tummarna för bra väder! Verkar ganska blåsigt just nu.

 

[E9climbing]

Ja det ar mer an 50 km/h pa 5500m.

 

[Corax]

Båda från den 18'e.
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=19054
http://e9climbing.blogspot.com/

 

[E9climbing]

Tja inte gar det bra-

http://www.russianclimb.com/kwangde2010.html


Vi har tagit ner allt fran insteget pa 4750m och funderar nu8 pa ad vi kan gora.... Vadret ar super stabilt som docktor Alban skulle sagt till Brolin men det har varit daligt med nederbord och mycket vind sa det arr torrt pa de norsdvaggar vi tittat pa. Well sa ar det med Himalaya klattring mycket forsok och lite utdelning. Men kul ar det.

 

[Mezzner]

Är det t o m så att man kan tänka sig att vinterförhållandena är bättre efter den formella vintersäsongen?

 

[Corax]

We have decided to pack up and return home. Its sad but the only thing we can do. We cant obtain a new permit in time to try another peak as our window closes on Saturday. We did not get to climb but we have had a great time and a new friendship has been forged. I think we both have enjoyed this trip even though we are hugely disappointed.

Conditions are hard to predict and even harder to cope with. The total absence of ice on the 1300 meter super steep wall of Kwangde was simply not some thing we had any desire to expose our self to. One has to know when to back off in order to get future opportunities to climb in the greater ranges. I will be back in Himalaya in July to try the North Ridge of Latok and Vassy is hoping to go to Lhotse as well as becoming a father in a few weeks.

 

[E9climbing]

Tawoche winter rout

Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards did a super nice winter route. Last winter Cory bagged Kwangde with Pappert via a new route. Quite impressive. The guys are great. After doing the route they are now training Sherpas at the climbing school up the valley from Namche in the Khumbu.

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/north_americans_bag_new_line_on_tawoche/

Chapeau