Climbing route to Ahkka

[Alberto123]

Hi everyone.
We are group going for a few days to Sarek National Park at the very end of July and beginning of August and we are looking for a bit of local advice . Our route goes from Ritsem to Suorva, climbing the Ahkka or the Sarektjahkka. One of the two depending on the weather.
I would like to ask you about the best way to reach the top of Ahkka. It seems the most usual way is from the north. Is it possible avoiding the ice? If necessary, we will bring crampons with us.
Thanks in advance

 

[Akklokk]

The standard route is from the north but you can also ascend Stortoppen from the east, just go on the right side of the glacier. Its quite steep, bu as I remember, no real climbing (for this route you dong need crampons).

 

[Alberto123]

Thank you,
We will go from the north, following the east bank of the Nirramjähka stream up to the lakes. Once there I don't know if we will continue across the glacier to the saddle between Borgtoppen and Stortoppen or may be trying the slope on the left side of the glacier. At that point I am not sure what's the easiest way. Route 1,2 or 3. If we choose route 1, may be the last crest is too aerial.

 

[Sauvakavelija]

Route 2 probably is not the easiest, I don't know if anyone ever has used it. If you choose route 1, you will reach the northern presummit at appr 2003 meters fairly easily but then you have to face the final airy (and scary) narrow ridge followed by equally airy climb to the highest summit at 2011 meters (see the images below). And if you manage to reach the highest summit you'd still have to come back again. Not so easy in my opinion. Route 3 is the preferred route provided that you're comfortable with crossing the glacier, which might still be covered with snow on the upper parts. To climb Ahkka means you'll need walk your way up (and down) some 1500 meters of altitude, quite a challenge for one day. You can have a camp at appr 1340 meters, below the glacier, right about where your route 1 departs from your routes 2 and 3. And while you're visiting the summit, you can check if it's possible to descent to the south side of Ahkka from the saddle between Borgtoppen and Stortoppen. That would bring you closer to Sarek for the continuation of your way to Suorva.

Airy ridge.

Climb to the highest summit.

 

[avslutat 73229]

I have done route 3 about 10 years ago. The only "crux" is the last part of the glacier and the slope up to the saddle, but if you're used to glacier conditions and alpine terrain, that would not be an issue. The glacier is very "uncomplicated" and in late July when we walked over it was just the upper part that had snow cover. As it's a long walk up and down, we put up our tents at the small lake below Hylljökeln-glacier.

On the glacier

Ahkka Stortoppen. You can see your route 2 here, during winter these slopes are very prone to avalanches

The slope up to the saddle

Our camp below Hylljökeln

 

[Alberto123]

Thanks very much everbody for the useful info.
Route 3 was the one I liked best, and now it's clear. It looks similar to some ascents you can find in the Pyrenees, which are the mountains we know best.
Climbing the Ahkka is planned our second day, so we would have only the second part of the first day to reach the base camp. Enough to reach 600m or even better1350m if we leave part of the weight we don't need at a lower altitude.