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The Eiger NF in 2:28 solo! Did you think that Ueli Steck was fast and crazy? http://www.mammut.ch/basecamp/en/basecamp-news/dani_arnold_eiger_record?iframe=1

http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20080 Ueli Steck and Don Bowie for Tibetan 8000er triple - Niklas Hallstrom for Shisha & Everest

Here you have the Swedish pre 1996 history: http://artikelzonen.com/svensk-himalayaklattring-de-forsta-100-aren-1894-1996

Göran Kropp? I read somewhere on his first try he even made the track in new snow. Any of you who've walked up a mountain in deep snow know that it makes a heck of a difference. About sponsoring I can say it's no free lunch. You write for magazines and get some money per page. You speak public...

Veikka Gustafsson did most of his latest 8000'ers with very low profile and relatively light weight. I think the turning point for light weight expeditions was on Annapurna when they were trying Loretan's route. He probably had some sponsor money but it definitely wasn't a media circus. Most of...

You give lots of reasons to spend money which I don't think are that good excuses. :) I'll start with the easy one: lost income. How do you count your lost income? Is your normal level of working 8 hours a day or 10 hours a day? If you start counting lost income I think you should start...

Btw if Anneli is reading this I would say don't take it too seriously. The debate is not about persons - it's only matters. Wish you a nice trip and good luck!

Pompe has said that she will have a sherpa with her during the ascent who will carry O2 for her in case she feel she cant make it to the summit with out O2. If she does everything as she's planned and claims an "O2-free ascent" (like she's advertised already) I would say she will be lying. In...

I have friends who have ordinary jobs and who have done Everest at their own cost. It's not like it's super expensive. The permit is like USD 10.000 and if you've climbed long enough you'll probably have all the gear yourself. You can easily do the expedition with USD 15.000 including everything...

It seems to be very diffucult to get the message through. With bolts I was speaking about the analogy. I'm saying that if people get some critisism before their project, they might actually learn something from it. And the second part of your message I don't understand at all. I've had both...

Sometimes it's good to question things beforehand, too. Especially if someone has a reputation of bullshitting. You know, David Lama stopped placing more bolts on Cerro Torre once people started questioning his methods.

Seems like you don't understand the whole concept. It's not about bullshitting. If someone claims he or she did something he or she never really did, of course, it's ok to question it. I wouldn't call this bullshitting. Bullshitting is saying you did something you really didn't do.

Please define a "climber". You know, you can fly in many different ways from Stockholm to Helsinki. The easiest way of doing it is paying some money and sitting for one hour on your ass in a commercial plane. That's a bit like being a client in a commercial expedition and I wouldn't really...

The reserve gas is one of the smallest compromises. The porters are one thing, too, but that is still not the real thing. The most important compromise in guided expeditions is related to decision making. The hardest part of climbing something big is related to decision making and planning. The...

A friend of mine asked me to write here and here are my two cents. First of all we need to define few words here. These three words are used in a very different way depending on the context. Particularly there are big differences how seasoned climbers and guided expedition clients use these...

http://mammutathleteteam.blogspot.com/2011/03/patagonia-2011-closure.html The Wave Effort trip report by Whit Magro.

I read Swedish quite ok and understand maybe 95% of everything. Writing english is much easier, though. :) We did the Nose with a 60m single rope btw. We didn't have any other rope on the route. It would have cost us a fortune to bail the route somewhere high up... Villaneuva and Favresse had a...

If you don't know what it is you should rehease it a bit. The longest aid lead we did on the Nose was Changing Corners and it took me 50 minutes for the full 50 meters. I did it in the dark with the light of a head lamp and I was pretty exhausted at that point. The good thing about crack...

I led the blocks from Dolt Tower to Camp 4 and from Camp 5 to the summit. Lauri did the first block and the middle block. I remember using like two micro stoppers for the Changing Corners and two bigger nuts for Glowering Spot right after Camp 5. Everything else was easy free climbing or clean...

Hope you have better luck with flying back than everyone else! Yosemite is definitely more pleasant but if it was easy down there it wouldn't be Patagonia.