Repmarkering
- Trådstartare Ix
- Start datum
Kanske...
Svart att saga...finns sakert en massa meningar om repmarkering och ev. skada pa repet.
Fann det har pa en amerikansk sajt (www.tradgirl.com)
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From: Sterling Ropes (in a newsletter sent by snail mail, 5/2002)
This has been and continues to be hot topic among climbers. The following is preliminary recommendations that were developed from the recent 2001 UIAA Safety Commission, and brief overview of the results of recent and earlier tests conducted by the German Alpine Club.
Recent tests conducted by two rope manufacturers have found significant strength reductions (45% reduction after seven days influence, and more than 50% reduction after three weeks influcene) after application of markers on the rope. In the German study, when the marked portion of the rope was placed on the edge of the orifice and tested, the ropes held significantly fewer falls. These tests were done a few years ago when various other substances were also tested. Urine causes a 30% reduction in number of drops held. Insect repellent apparantly does no harm. Acids, we know, are deadly in the true sense of the word. Clearly there is only a problem if the rope happens to be loaded over an edge precisely at the marked section. It is believed that falls at other places in the rope will not be significantly affected. Tests were done in 1997/98.
It has also been found in previous research and testing that the marker companies change the ingredients in the markers based on availability and price of the chemicals. Based upon these facts and knowing that there is no consistent formula, it is not recommended using marks of unknown ingredients for use on ropes and webbing.
Test Protocol - The marked location was placed directly over the 'edge', i.e. in the plane of the orifice in the UIAA drop test aparatus. This is the location where all ropes break in the test. The number of falls was reduced from 10 to 12 falls down to 6 to 8 falls. Note that the rope is still perfectly safe as long as the marked location does not lie on an edge during a fall. This is an unlikely situation, but we still do not like the odds. The UIAA meeting notes from 1998 state that marking a dynamic rope with a marker, even one that is marketed as a rope marker, effectively cuts the breaking strength in half when the rope falls over an edge at the area marked. NOTE: these problems will not arise with middle or other markings applied by the manufacturer, such as Sterling's whipped center marker.
These findings will be made in an announcement drafted by the President of the UIAA in a warning statement about the use of any marker on plyamid (perlon, nylon) based upon the above tests."
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Bedom sjalva...
/Mattias
Svart att saga...finns sakert en massa meningar om repmarkering och ev. skada pa repet.
Fann det har pa en amerikansk sajt (www.tradgirl.com)
--------------------------------------
From: Sterling Ropes (in a newsletter sent by snail mail, 5/2002)
This has been and continues to be hot topic among climbers. The following is preliminary recommendations that were developed from the recent 2001 UIAA Safety Commission, and brief overview of the results of recent and earlier tests conducted by the German Alpine Club.
Recent tests conducted by two rope manufacturers have found significant strength reductions (45% reduction after seven days influence, and more than 50% reduction after three weeks influcene) after application of markers on the rope. In the German study, when the marked portion of the rope was placed on the edge of the orifice and tested, the ropes held significantly fewer falls. These tests were done a few years ago when various other substances were also tested. Urine causes a 30% reduction in number of drops held. Insect repellent apparantly does no harm. Acids, we know, are deadly in the true sense of the word. Clearly there is only a problem if the rope happens to be loaded over an edge precisely at the marked section. It is believed that falls at other places in the rope will not be significantly affected. Tests were done in 1997/98.
It has also been found in previous research and testing that the marker companies change the ingredients in the markers based on availability and price of the chemicals. Based upon these facts and knowing that there is no consistent formula, it is not recommended using marks of unknown ingredients for use on ropes and webbing.
Test Protocol - The marked location was placed directly over the 'edge', i.e. in the plane of the orifice in the UIAA drop test aparatus. This is the location where all ropes break in the test. The number of falls was reduced from 10 to 12 falls down to 6 to 8 falls. Note that the rope is still perfectly safe as long as the marked location does not lie on an edge during a fall. This is an unlikely situation, but we still do not like the odds. The UIAA meeting notes from 1998 state that marking a dynamic rope with a marker, even one that is marketed as a rope marker, effectively cuts the breaking strength in half when the rope falls over an edge at the area marked. NOTE: these problems will not arise with middle or other markings applied by the manufacturer, such as Sterling's whipped center marker.
These findings will be made in an announcement drafted by the President of the UIAA in a warning statement about the use of any marker on plyamid (perlon, nylon) based upon the above tests."
-----------------------------------------------
Bedom sjalva...
/Mattias
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Repmarkering och Montserrat | Klättring allmänt | 2 |
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