I landed in the provincial capital of Xinjiang, Urumqi after a a flight without any interesting happenings. It was late when I landed and pitch dark. Very keen on starting my trip, I took off in the middle of the night. Had no clue where the roads towards the Tian Shan were, but reckoned if I headed south I couldn't go too wrong. Also, as long as it was uphill - fine. In the first moonlight of that night I realized I was on the right track. Slept under a bare sky feeling great - on the road again!
The centre of the Asian contient (I guess they
mean continent :-) ). By sheer coincidence I passed this famous place. If you think this is an interesting subject, check out; Richard
and Nicholas Crane |
After one day of cycling, only 70 km out of Urumqi, I enjoyed crystal clear rivers, green fesh grass, spring flowers and very nice views of the highest mountains of eastern Tian Shan. | |
The road towards the first pass. The route from Urumqi is one of the longest climbs in the world - from 830 m to 4050 m. |
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After a relatively cold night I continued.
First I had difficulties to see where the road went, but I soon realized
it was even more interesting than I had thought. Switchbacks straight up
the snowy mountainside, steep and in the end with heavy snowfall. Alive
again!
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The view from the highest roadpass in eastern Tien Shan. | |
2500 meters down to Balgontai, Wanted as amny passes as possible, so I went straight up north again towards the next one. Got a bit confused when reaching the 3000 meter plus summit. How come it was decorated like a Tibetan pass, complete with prayer flags, tibetan scripts and traditional sacrifices? After all, this pass is thousands of km from the closest Tibetan settlement and i have never seen any Tibetans in this part of China. If you have any info about this, please mail me, keen on getting the answer on this one. | |
After this pass the nature changed dramatically. Huge, wide grasslands with yaks and and nomads. | |
A lone shephard. | |
The climb up to the next pass was a violent experience. When approaching, I thought there was fog up there, but It turned out to be smeared out clouds. The winds seemed to blow from all directions at the same time and I had some serious difficulties to stay on the bike. Another pass with lots of Tibetan attributes. | |
A very cold downhill followed. Didn't got warm until 1500 vertical meters later. Was a bit surprised to see log cabins, which was almost identical to the ones you can find in Scandinavia. | |
A typical view from northern Tian Shan - round, mellow green hills, filled with high Douglas furs. | |
The climb to pass number four. | |
Back on the highplateau again. Actually, I wouldn't had had to leave in the first place, but I wanted to chuck in a detour which included two more passes. Am I addicted to passes? :-) | |
Took a rest on the grassy plateau. Not so
much from the cycling, as from the many violent dog attacks I
experienced along the way. Had difficulties to understand the nomad's
mentality. Their dogs attacks me - I scream for help - they don't seem
to care at all about my situation - I defend myself and strike back at
the dogs - dogs screaming in pain - still no reaction from the
nomads.
Ok, if they don't care about the cyclist under attack (still weird), but why don't they give a damn about their dogs? An enigma. |
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Left the plateau, dogs and nomads and arrived at the southern range of the Tian Shan. The peaks are generally more barren and more hostile looking here, | |
Down the last pass towards the lowlands. | |
The Small Dragon Lake. The color of the water reminded me of the colors you find in lagoons in the Pacific. | |
Red rock formations where the mountains meet the desert. | |
"The Devil's Gorge" close to Kuqa looked like a giant had ripped up parts of the mountains and thrown them back into the ground with a tremendous force. | |
It was really hot on the lowlands. Melting asphalt didn't make the journey easier. |
I got some nice and hard training in the mountains and that was one of the
reasons I had headed there in the first place. I spent 8 days in between 3000
and 4000 meters and it was an excellent start for my acclimatization for the
Muztagh Ata climb.
It had been a great warmup and start of the season, but i also found out that
some of the equipment I had gotten was crap. It's the last thing you need on a
7000m mountain.
I headed for Kashi to meet the expedition members.
Graph and info about this route To the Muztagh Ata page To main page about Xinjiang 2002