Sport i Italienska Aosta?
- Trådstartare Fred-o
- Start datum
En dal söderut har du Val d'Orco, finfin sprickklättring på granit, som Bohuslän fast multipitch.
http://www.lovecourmayeur.com/en/summer-activities/rock-climbing
http://www.lovecourmayeur.com/en/summer-activities/rock-climbing
Jag skrev ett forum inlägg om sportklättring runt Arnad i Aosta, jag klistrar in den här, kanske kan den vara av intresse:
We headed for Arco last year but it was so darn hot then. Not far north from Arco you have Sarche which has a bunch of multipitch sport routes. The nicest one there we did before leaving for cooler areas is "Via Moonbear" which was not in our guidebook (fairly new route) but Google it and you'll find a topo and the specific cliff it goes on.
Another destination worth considering is Paretone, Arnad in Aosta Valley. A whole bunch of multi and single pitch routes where rebolted a few years back. I think there is something of around 40 multipitch climbs of up to 10 pitches on great rock, all within close access to parking. The risk there is that they might feel a little bit "same same" as the angle is basically the same for the full length (personal assumtion though, we only did one route there). If your lucky you'll get on a route with comfortable belays (we did), unlucky and you'll get hanging belays most of the way (the Finnish party on the route next to us). If you get tired of them, walk a bit further and get on "La rossa e il vampirla" or one of the other routes on Lomasti (Pilastro).
Guidebooks for this area is not really needed. Just bring your smartphone and take a photo of the topos that are signposted at the parking (and at Fort Machaby for routes on Lomasti). At the start of the routes the names and grades are on small signs but as some routes cross each other it will be helpful with a topo photo anyway.
The downside with climbing in this area is the traffic on the A5 that flows through the valley. It didn't bother me much but gave my girlfriend a headache. It was a little less noisy up at Lomasti compared to Paretone.
We headed for Arco last year but it was so darn hot then. Not far north from Arco you have Sarche which has a bunch of multipitch sport routes. The nicest one there we did before leaving for cooler areas is "Via Moonbear" which was not in our guidebook (fairly new route) but Google it and you'll find a topo and the specific cliff it goes on.
Another destination worth considering is Paretone, Arnad in Aosta Valley. A whole bunch of multi and single pitch routes where rebolted a few years back. I think there is something of around 40 multipitch climbs of up to 10 pitches on great rock, all within close access to parking. The risk there is that they might feel a little bit "same same" as the angle is basically the same for the full length (personal assumtion though, we only did one route there). If your lucky you'll get on a route with comfortable belays (we did), unlucky and you'll get hanging belays most of the way (the Finnish party on the route next to us). If you get tired of them, walk a bit further and get on "La rossa e il vampirla" or one of the other routes on Lomasti (Pilastro).
Guidebooks for this area is not really needed. Just bring your smartphone and take a photo of the topos that are signposted at the parking (and at Fort Machaby for routes on Lomasti). At the start of the routes the names and grades are on small signs but as some routes cross each other it will be helpful with a topo photo anyway.
The downside with climbing in this area is the traffic on the A5 that flows through the valley. It didn't bother me much but gave my girlfriend a headache. It was a little less noisy up at Lomasti compared to Paretone.
Arnad är väldigt nära Verres. Ska du ändå hit så är det helt klart värt att klättra Diedro Bianco på ett av sportklätter områdenerna i Arnad. De har bultad den som en två repors sporttur, men den gick utmärkt att klättra den i en repa på egna säkringar (60m, jag hade ett 70m rep). Ett sätt med kilar och dubbla uppsättningar med kamsäkringar, kanske t o m ännu en blå/#3 Camalot om du har.
Bilagor
"Ett kilset" borde det stå...
För sportklättring i Aosta dalen finns följande bok:
Mani nude. Arrampicata sportiva in Valle d'Aosta vol.2
di Massimo Bal, Patrick Raspo
Den går att köpa på en välsorterad klättring/skid-butik alternativ lokala bokhandlaren.
I Aosta dalen, dvs låg (ej upp i bergen), så finns det väldigt lite trad-utvecklade klippor. Det finns ett ställe, där jag ej ännu varit, i dalen som ser intressant ut:
http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=39512#
/Christian
Mani nude. Arrampicata sportiva in Valle d'Aosta vol.2
di Massimo Bal, Patrick Raspo
Den går att köpa på en välsorterad klättring/skid-butik alternativ lokala bokhandlaren.
I Aosta dalen, dvs låg (ej upp i bergen), så finns det väldigt lite trad-utvecklade klippor. Det finns ett ställe, där jag ej ännu varit, i dalen som ser intressant ut:
http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=39512#
/Christian
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